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SIMULACRA

DISCOVER

References beyond the current archive.

Nothing here is part of the collection. Each one is shown with the signals it holds in common with SIMULACRA and the entries those signals lead to, so the reason it appears can be followed and disagreed with. Distance is read off the archive graph, not scored.

DISCOVERED03 PLATES

DISCOVEREDFASHIONADJACENT

Jacket and waistcoat, c.2010, V&A.

Jacket and waistcoat, c.2010, V&A.

SOURCE Victoria and Albert MuseumReferenced from its source. Rights not established by SIMULACRA.

Carol Christian Poell

Carol Christian Poell · 1994–

Already named in the wardrobe formula as a way of testing the system rather than confirming it, and not yet an entry. Object dyeing is the reason: the garment is built first and dyed whole, so seams and hardware take the colour unevenly and no two pieces finish alike. That is controlled distressing as a process rather than an effect.

SIGNALS

ROUTE BACK

  1. Carol Christian PoellDISCOVERED
  2. TECHNICAL TEXTILE4 SHAREDJULIUS — industrial tailoringTatsuro Horikawa / JULIUSSB-FAS-002IN ARCHIVE
SHOW 3 PATHS

SOURCEcarolchristianpoell.com

DISCOVEREDFASHIONNEAR

Clothing ensemble, 2003, V&A.

Clothing ensemble, 2003, V&A.

SOURCE Victoria and Albert MuseumReferenced from its source. Rights not established by SIMULACRA.

Helmut Lang, 1986–2005

Helmut Lang · 1986–2005

The wardrobe formula lists him as a test case and the archive has no entry. Lang is where technical fabric, industrial hardware and severe tailoring were first put together as everyday clothing rather than as a proposition, which is precisely the register the formula is trying to hold.

SIGNALS

ROUTE BACK

  1. Helmut Lang, 1986–2005DISCOVERED
  2. TECHNICAL TEXTILE3 SHAREDJULIUS — industrial tailoringTatsuro Horikawa / JULIUSSB-FAS-002IN ARCHIVE
SHOW 3 PATHS

SOURCEvam.ac.uk

DISCOVEREDFASHIONNEAR

A-POC T-shirt, 2002, V&A — one garment cut from the tube.

A-POC T-shirt, 2002, V&A — one garment cut from the tube.

SOURCE Victoria and Albert MuseumReferenced from its source. Rights not established by SIMULACRA.

A-POC

Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara · 1997–

A single tube of knitted fabric from which the wearer cuts their own garment, with no seams and no waste. Where Kawakubo distorts the silhouette and Yamamoto holds it away from the body, this removes the pattern entirely and makes the garment a system the buyer completes. It is the engineering argument without the black.

SIGNALS

ROUTE BACK

  1. A-POCDISCOVERED
  2. VOLUME3 SHAREDYohji Yamamoto — black volumeYohji YamamotoSB-FAS-003IN ARCHIVE
SHOW 3 PATHS

SOURCEisseymiyake.com

03 OF 24 REFERENCES SHOWN · NONE IN THE ARCHIVE